The Last Horizon: Zanskar River and Copper Canyon = Articles & Stories: Travelogues Ladakh Kashmir India

From: Subject: The Last Horizon: Zanskar River and Copper Canyon Articles & Stories: Travelogues Ladakh Kashmir India Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 18:44:03 +0530 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000C_01C0ACB6.BE0CA920"; type="text/html" X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C0ACB6.BE0CA920 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Location: http://www.realadventures.com/mv/showlink.mv?1024422+0001 The Last Horizon: Zanskar River and Copper Canyon = Articles & Stories: Travelogues Ladakh Kashmir India

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The Last Horizon: = Zanskar River=20 and Copper Canyon=20

Related Information On =

Ladakh
Kashmir
India
Asia

Travelogues
Articles=20 & Stories

=20

by = Vaibhav=20 Kala

Zanskar – a remote valley in Ladakh is = the fabled=20 “Land of White Copper” – is a land of = glaciers and extreme cold,=20 snow leopards and the ibex, black wolves and the rare = Himalayan blue=20 poppy, and of spirits and monks. At an average altitude of = over=20 13,000 feet, the strange aspect of this valley is that it = has no=20 entrance. The two rivers that flow in it meet to carve a = gorge so=20 long and deep that one cannot travel down it to enter or = exit the=20 region. The only way out is crossing the Zanskar range of = mountains,=20 through high passes that are closed eight months out of the=20 year.

This gorge of the Zanskar, therefore, remains=20 un-trekkable during the summer when the melting snow sends = the river=20 raging, but forms a corridor of ice in winter that serves as = the=20 only, albeit dangerous, way out of the Zanskar valley. = During the=20 summer, however, the only mode of traveling down this gorge = is by a=20 well-planned raft trip, completely self-contained, with top = quality=20 gear and experienced river guides.

The Zanskar = rafting=20 expedition trip is a trip of a lifetime, and having had seen = the=20 valley on a previous trekking trip, this was a chance to = take the=20 next logical extension, a trip down the canyon itself. Our = trip=20 began after an inspiring early-morning flight over the Great = Himalayan Range with the sun reaching out to hit the = mountaintops.=20 An hour later, one is nearly skimmimg Spituk Gompa on one of = the=20 toughest landings in the country. Brown and barren at 11,500 = feet=20 above sea level, Leh makes you feel lightheaded and tired. = It takes=20 about a day to acclimatize with adequate rest and, maybe, a = pill to=20 fight altitude sickness.

Leh is the capital of = Ladakh, the=20 highest and largest district in the country. Strategically = placed,=20 Ladakh has often been, until recently, the stage for border = tension,=20 unrest and border scuffles. Time has moved slowly since the = first=20 Buddhist kingdom was established nearly 10 centuries ago. = Ladakh=20 lies in the eastern half of the state of Jammu and Kashmir = in the=20 far north of India. It shares its much disputed north = western border=20 with Pakistan, while to the north lies the Chinese province = of=20 Sinkiang, and to the east, Chinese-occupied = Tibet.

Covering=20 an area of approximately 60,000 square kilometers and = ranging from=20 2,600 meters to 7,670 meters in elevation, Ladakh is = sandwiched=20 between two mountain systems – the Karakorams to the = north and the=20 Himalayas in the south. Ladakh can basically be divided into = five=20 geographical regions – Central Ladakh (the heartland = of the Indus=20 valley), Nubra (lying to the north of the Ladakh range), = Rupshu (a=20 dry, high-altitude plateau lying in the south-east of = Ladakh),=20 Zanskar (one of the highest inhabited regions in the world), = and=20 western Ladakh or Lower Ladakh (around Kargil).

The = mountains=20 here are a constantly changing theatre, with massifs = changing colors=20 with the sun – orange, green, rust, turquoise and blue = are only some=20 of the shades one witnesses each day. Zanskar has = India’s lowest=20 population density – only one-third of one Zanskari is = found per=20 square kilometer, which means you need to cover 10 square = kilometers=20 to see three people.

The gorge of the Zanskar is = about 150=20 kilometers long and slices right through the Zanskar range = of=20 mountains. The three-day ride from Leh to the put-in point = on the=20 Doda River traverses miles of valleys, prehistoric glaciers, = the=20 villages of Lamayuru and Kargil, and the 14,000-foot-high = Fotu La=20 pass. A large part of the drive is along the “Lion = river” – the=20 Indus – from which our country gets its name. =

Only a handful=20 of villages, with houses made of mud-walls, dry grass and = sticks for=20 insulation, are seen. The valley-broad meadows are normally = covered=20 with snow eight months of the year. In summer, these form = marshy=20 grazing grounds. Barley is a bumper crop yielded in the = Zanskar=20 valley around Padum, and the local brew, = “chang,” is a virtual treat=20 in this part of the world. Seven of us have signed up for = this trip=20 – there is a travel writer, two couples from Arizona, = a merchant=20 shipping officer on leave and an adventure travel = buff.

We=20 started the trip at Remala with the sun shining – = Vikram, JD, Arvind=20 and Anvesh, who accompanied us from Leh, helped us pack the = gear=20 into three rafts and proceeded to give us a comprehensive = safety=20 briefing. JD would be on the kayak, which added to the = safety=20 component of the entire trip. They say you could get = sunburnt and=20 frostbitten nearly simultaneously. We were wearing wetsuits, = lifejackets, paddling jackets, helmets and a new-found = feeling of=20 being extremely alive. The first plough through the = Doda’s icy-cold=20 waves was terrific – the experience of traveling = through some=20 fantastic piece of real estate will stay with you for the = rest of=20 your days.

We paddled down gentle Class II rapids of = the=20 Doda until the river joined the Tsarapchu to form the = Zanskar River=20 near Karsha, a monastery that stretches up 600 vertical feet = of=20 mountain face and is the largest in the land. Karsha belongs = to the=20 Yellow Hat sect of the Gelugpas, and is a strenuous walk up = from the=20 river where we had stopped. The effort is well rewarded upon = walking=20 up to the roof of the gompa – a birds-eye view of = central Zanskar=20 can exhilarate beyond belief.

Traveling down the = river with=20 the mountains gleaming in the clean, thin air, with the sun = burning=20 our faces and the cold water on the floor of the rafts = freezing the=20 toes, is an experience to savor. We got used to the cold, = and to the=20 hot sun – the expedition food was good and ample, with = a range of=20 variety, from Indian meals for the main meal at the end of = the day=20 to pasta and other easy-to-prepare meals like cold cuts, = eggs and=20 sandwiches for breakfast and lunch. We slept in waterproof = tents on=20 karrimats, waking up to bed-tea each morning, a great way to = start a=20 new day in the mountains. We washed in streams running to = join the=20 river, and toilets were the outdoors – toilet paper = was thoughtfully=20 burnt.

On our third day on the river, we enter the = Zanskar=20 gorge, where the river, in an awesome display of force, has = cut its=20 way between sheer cliffs towering 2,500 to 3,000 feet above = the=20 water. By now, we have learned the jargon of reading the = river –=20 eddies, holes, hydraulics, boils and pour-overs – from = our guides, a=20 team which has run all major Himalayan rivers in the = country.=20 Eddy-lines and boils can work together can flip a raft in = seconds.=20 We learn highside commands to deal with such situations and = feel=20 pretty smug with our new-found skills. Our guides take us = for a hike=20 into a nearby village, where we get to see a day in the life = of a=20 Zanskari household.

We pass Chilling, where they are = trying=20 to build a road into the Zanskar gorge. If ever completed, = it will=20 be a major feat of engineering. Chilling is famous for its = copper=20 work, and we pick up a few souvenirs. After crossing our = last major=20 rapid on the Zanskar near Chilling, we head onto the = confluence at=20 Nimu, where we bob into the mighty Indus River. Although the = Indus=20 is already over 500 kilometers long and away from its source = near=20 Kailash-Mansarovar in Tibet, the Zanskar is its first main=20 tributary.

We raft on past a huge rapid onto Saspul, = where=20 the rafts beach and the gear are unloaded. Truly, the trip = of a=20 lifetime is over. Rafts and gear are packed and dried over = some=20 lunch – and loaded into waiting vehicles.

We = drive into Leh=20 by late afternoon for a good shower and a walk into town = – the=20 evening is well-spent at an outdoor restaurant/ bar with = tales of=20 other trips and rivers and planning future adventures. After = the=20 handshakes, we bid goodbye to each other, amidst memories of = Zanskar, the last truly lost horizon of our shrinking = planet.=20

The Facts:

Ganges rafting: Some 15 outfitters = have=20 semi-permanent tent camps on the Ganges, India's holiest = river and=20 the most popular rafting site for New Delhi residents. = However, only=20 five are regularly functional with standard equipment and = services=20 provided. Speak with your guides before you go.

The = camps are=20 about 250 kilometers north of the Indian capital above the = town of=20 Rishikesh, where the river flows into the Gangetic Plain. = Most camps=20 are open throughout the season, from September to May, but = three-day=20 weekends are the most popular choice.

Rafting trips = and=20 expedition costs range from 2,000 Rupees to 25,000 Rupees = (depending=20 on trip and duration), including tents, camp cots with = bedding (not=20 on expeditions – smaller tents are used instead), = showers, dry=20 toilets, food, and transportation by jeep to the camp from = the=20 closest rail stop at Haridwar, a one-hour drive. Train fare = from New=20 Delhi to Haridwar is about 500 Rupees. Longer expedition = trips are=20 arranged on the Kali, Alaknanda, Bhagirathi and Ganga rivers = as=20 well.

Trekking: Trekking is popular all over northern = India,=20 and can be done independently or through an outfitter. Treks = can be=20 done on many levels, from backpacking to a fully-equipped = mule train=20 with a guide, cook, porters and tents, and for a wide range = of=20 prices. Trekking in the Zanskar and Leh regions is only = available=20 from June to September.

Author=20 Biography

Vaibhav Kala is one of the most = experienced=20 outdoors people in India, having climbed and rafted = extensively in=20 his 12 years of experience. He has been part of major = mountain=20 attempts and some classic first descents of wild remote = rivers in=20 India’s northeastern state of Arunachal Pradesh. He = now runs a=20 successful outdoor outfit that provides safe, offbeat trips = for the=20 discerning traveler.

Provided By Aquaterra=20 Adventures

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Lis= ting=20 #: 1024422 Last Updated:=20 = 10/30/2000


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Disclaimer:=20 Information on this site has been provided directly by the = companies=20 and/or individuals owning or offering the products/services.=20 RealAdventures does not guarantee or warranty the = accuracy of the information contained herein.

Last = modified:=20 October 2000

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